How to Secure Heavy Furniture Against Earthquakes: Complete DIY Guide 2025

In the 1994 Northridge earthquake, a study found that unsecured furniture caused more injuries than structural damage to buildings. Bookshelves toppling onto sleeping children. Dressers pinning people against walls. Refrigerators crushing kitchen occupants. TVs flying across rooms like missiles. These aren't hypothetical scenarios—they're documented causes of injury and death in modern earthquakes. What makes this tragic is that securing furniture against earthquakes is neither expensive nor technically difficult. A $20 kit of earthquake straps and 30 minutes of work can literally save lives.

You probably already know you should secure furniture. But knowing and doing are different. Maybe you're not sure which furniture needs securing. Maybe you don't know what anchoring products to buy. Maybe you're intimidated by the installation process. Maybe you're renting and think you can't make permanent modifications. Maybe you tried to secure something once, couldn't find wall studs, and gave up. This guide solves all of those problems.

You'll learn exactly which furniture items pose the greatest earthquake danger, the different types of earthquake anchoring systems and when to use each one, step-by-step instructions for finding wall studs and securing furniture properly, solutions for renters who can't drill into walls, special techniques for specific furniture types from bookshelves to refrigerators, common mistakes that make anchoring ineffective or even dangerous, and how to secure furniture on different wall types including drywall, plaster, concrete, and brick.

Why Furniture Securing Matters: The Physics and Statistics

How Earthquakes Affect Furniture

Understanding how earthquakes move furniture helps you appreciate why anchoring is critical.

Lateral force (horizontal shaking): Earthquake shaking pushes and pulls horizontally. A bookshelf doesn't just vibrate—it gets shoved sideways repeatedly. Each push tests the friction between the furniture's base and the floor. With enough force, that friction breaks and the furniture slides. Once sliding, furniture can travel several feet in seconds.

Rocking motion: As furniture slides back and forth, it rocks. Each rock lifts one side slightly, reducing the base of support. Eventually, the center of gravity shifts beyond the base, and the furniture tips over. Taller, narrower furniture tips more easily than short, wide furniture.

Resonance: If earthquake waves match furniture's natural frequency, the motion amplifies dramatically. A bookshelf might sway inches with gentle shaking but feet with resonant shaking. This is why some furniture topples in moderate earthquakes while other furniture survives strong earthquakes—it depends on whether resonance occurs.

Contents shift: Items on shelves move independently. Books fly off shelves. Objects on top of dressers become projectiles. This weight redistribution changes the furniture's center of gravity, making tip-overs more likely.

Injury and Fatality Statistics

The data on furniture-related earthquake injuries is sobering:

• Northridge 1994: Unsecured furniture and contents caused 55% of non-structural injuries
• Loma Prieta 1989: Falling objects and furniture tip-overs accounted for 42% of hospital emergency room visits
• Japan 2011: Despite excellent building codes, furniture tip-overs injured thousands
• Children at highest risk: Furniture tip-over deaths occur every year even WITHOUT earthquakes—adding seismic forces dramatically increases risk

Common furniture injury scenarios:

• Bookshelves falling on people sleeping in beds beneath them
• Dressers pinning children who pull out drawers for climbing
• TVs sliding off entertainment centers and striking people
• China cabinets falling forward onto dining areas
• Refrigerators tipping onto people standing in front of open doors

Financial Impact

Beyond injury, unsecured furniture causes expensive damage:

• Broken furniture replacement costs
• Damaged floors from furniture impacts
• Destroyed contents (books, dishes, electronics)
• Structural damage from heavy furniture hitting walls

A $200 investment in earthquake anchoring prevents potentially $10,000+ in damage and priceless injury prevention.

Types of Earthquake Anchoring Systems

Different furniture types and situations require different anchoring solutions. Understanding your options ensures you choose the right product.

Furniture Straps and Cables

Nylon straps:

• Description: Heavy-duty nylon webbing (similar to seatbelt material) with metal brackets on each end
• Best for: Bookshelves, dressers, cabinets, entertainment centers
• Typical cost: $8-15 for 2-pack
• Weight rating: Usually rated for 200-400 pounds
• Installation: One end screws to back of furniture (top), other end screws to wall stud
• Pros: Inexpensive, easy to install, adjustable, works on most furniture
• Cons: Visible (aesthetically not ideal), requires wall stud anchoring

Steel cable systems:

• Description: Braided steel cable with adjustable length and mounting hardware
• Best for: Heavy furniture (over 200 pounds), high-value items, situations requiring stronger hold
• Typical cost: $12-20 per cable
• Weight rating: 400-800+ pounds
• Installation: Similar to straps but requires cable crimping or special connectors
• Pros: Very strong, durable, lasts indefinitely
• Cons: More expensive, slightly harder to install, less aesthetically pleasing

L-Brackets and Corner Braces

Standard L-brackets:

• Description: Metal angle brackets (90-degree) that screw to furniture and wall
• Best for: Bookshelves, cabinets, anything against a flat wall
• Typical cost: $3-8 for 4-pack
• Installation: One side screws to furniture top or side, other screws to wall stud
• Pros: Very strong, permanent, low-profile
• Cons: Visible (can be painted to match), permanent holes in furniture

Earthquake-specific brackets:

• Description: Purpose-designed brackets with anti-tip features
• Best for: Furniture in high-seismic zones requiring maximum protection
• Typical cost: $10-20 per set
• Pros: Engineered specifically for earthquake forces, very reliable
• Cons: More expensive than standard brackets

Adhesive Anchoring Systems

Museum putty/earthquake putty:

• Description: Reusable putty-like adhesive that holds objects in place
• Best for: Small objects (under 20 pounds), TVs on stands, decorative items, anything you can't screw down
• Typical cost: $6-10 for 4-ounce package (secures dozens of items)
• How it works: Apply pea-sized amount to object base, press onto surface, twist to remove
• Pros: No damage to surfaces, removable, perfect for renters, works on irregular surfaces
• Cons: Not suitable for heavy items, can fail in extreme heat, needs replacement over time

Heavy-duty adhesive strips:

• Description: Industrial-strength double-sided adhesive strips
• Best for: Medium-weight items (up to 50 pounds) where drilling isn't allowed
• Typical cost: $10-15 for pack
• Pros: No holes, can support moderate weight
• Cons: Surface must be smooth and clean, may damage paint on removal, not as reliable as mechanical fasteners

Appliance-Specific Systems

Refrigerator straps:

• Description: Extra-heavy-duty straps designed for appliance weight and dimensions
• Typical cost: $15-25
• Installation: Attach to refrigerator back (top), anchor to wall stud

Water heater straps:

• Description: Metal banding designed to wrap around cylindrical water heaters
• Typical cost: $15-30 for kit with two straps
• Installation: Two straps (upper and lower thirds of tank) secured to wall studs on both sides
• Required by code: Many jurisdictions mandate water heater strapping

TV anti-tip straps:

• Description: Short straps connecting TV back to wall or entertainment center
• Typical cost: $8-15
• Best for: TVs on stands (wall-mounting is even safer)

Essential Tools and Materials

Basic Tool Kit for Furniture Anchoring

Must-have tools:

• Stud finder: Electronic stud finder ($20-40) - absolutely essential for locating wall studs
• Power drill/driver: Cordless drill ($50-100) or corded drill ($30-60)
• Drill bits: Set including 1/8-inch pilot bit and bits matching screw sizes
• Screwdriver set: Phillips and flathead in multiple sizes
• Level: 2-foot or 4-foot level ($10-25) to ensure furniture is plumb before anchoring
• Tape measure: 25-foot tape measure ($10-15)
• Pencil: For marking stud locations and screw positions
• Safety glasses: Protect eyes when drilling

Helpful but optional tools:

• Wrench set: For tightening lag screws (heavy-duty anchoring)
• Socket set: Makes driving lag screws easier
• Magnetic tray: Holds screws and small parts
• Utility knife: For cutting straps to length
• Hacksaw: For cutting steel cable
• Cable crimping tool: If using steel cable systems

Anchoring Hardware and Supplies

Screws and fasteners:

• Wood screws (for studs): #8 or #10 screws, 2-3 inches long
• Lag screws (heavy items): 1/4-inch x 3-inch lag screws with washers
• Toggle bolts (drywall, no studs): Only for lightweight items (not recommended for furniture over 30 pounds)
• Masonry anchors (concrete/brick): Tapcon screws or expansion anchors

Earthquake anchoring products:

• Furniture straps or cables (based on furniture inventory—usually 6-12 needed per home)
• L-brackets (4-8 sets for typical home)
• Museum putty (one package secures dozens of small items)
• Appliance-specific straps as needed

Estimated budget:

• Tools (if starting from nothing): $100-150
• Anchoring supplies for typical 3-bedroom home: $50-100
• Total first-time investment: $150-250
• For subsequent furniture or homes: Just supplies ($20-50)

Finding Wall Studs: The Critical First Step

Earthquake straps and L-brackets MUST attach to wall studs, not just drywall. Drywall alone cannot support furniture during earthquake forces. This is the most common and dangerous mistake in furniture anchoring.

Why Wall Studs Are Essential

Drywall strength: Standard drywall is 1/2-inch thick gypsum board. It's designed to create smooth walls, not bear loads. A screw in drywall alone will pull out with 20-50 pounds of force. During an earthquake, a toppling bookshelf exerts hundreds or thousands of pounds of force.

Stud strength: Wall studs are 2x4 or 2x6 lumber (actual dimensions 1.5x3.5 or 1.5x5.5 inches) running vertically inside walls. They support the house structure. A screw properly driven into a stud can resist 100-300+ pounds of pull-out force depending on screw size and type.

Math: A 200-pound bookshelf tipping in an earthquake can exert 500+ pounds of force on an anchor point. Drywall anchor: fails. Stud anchor: holds. That's the difference between injury and safety.

Using a Stud Finder

Electronic stud finders (recommended):

Step-by-step procedure:

1. Start in empty wall space: Begin 12+ inches from corner, away from outlets or switches
2. Calibrate the finder: Most stud finders require calibration—press and hold the button until it beeps/lights
3. Slide slowly across wall: Move the finder horizontally at slow, steady pace
4. Mark both edges: When finder beeps/lights, mark that spot. Continue moving to find the other edge of the stud
5. Mark stud center: Studs are typically 1.5 inches wide—mark the center point between the two edges
6. Verify location: Scan again from opposite direction to confirm
7. Measure to next stud: Studs are typically 16 or 24 inches apart (center to center)—measure to predict next stud location

Troubleshooting stud finder issues:

• False positives: Stud finder beeping everywhere may need recalibration or battery replacement
• Can't find studs: They're definitely there—try scanning from different direction or at different height on wall
• Inconsistent readings: Metal plumbing or electrical wiring can interfere—scan higher or lower on wall
• Old plaster walls: Stud finders work less reliably on plaster over lath—use alternative methods below

Alternative Methods for Finding Studs

Knocking method:

• Knock on wall with knuckles across a horizontal line
• Hollow sound = no stud behind drywall
• Solid, dull thud = stud present
• Mark suspected stud locations, verify by drilling small test hole

Outlet method:

• Electrical boxes are typically attached to studs
• Remove outlet cover plate
• Look inside box—stud should be visible on one side
• Measure 16 or 24 inches from that stud to locate others

Magnet method:

• Use strong magnet to find drywall screws or nails (which attach drywall to studs)
• Slide magnet across wall until it sticks to a screw
• Follow vertical line of screws—that's the stud

Small hole test:

• Drill very small hole (1/16-inch) at suspected stud location
• If you hit solid wood, you found a stud
• If drill goes through easily with no resistance, it's hollow (no stud)
• Small holes are easily patched with spackle

Step-by-Step: Securing Different Furniture Types

Bookshelves and Tall Storage Units

Bookshelves are the highest-priority furniture to secure. They're tall, heavy when loaded, and commonly positioned near beds and seating areas.

Assessment:

• Any bookshelf over 30 inches tall should be anchored
• Priority for shelves over 4 feet or those loaded with heavy books
• Extra priority for shelves in bedrooms (over beds) or children's rooms

Method 1: Furniture straps (most common)

1. Position bookshelf against wall where you want it permanently located
2. Ensure bookshelf is level and plumb using a level (adjust feet if needed)
3. Locate wall studs at bookshelf location (mark with pencil)
4. Mark strap attachment point on furniture: At top back of bookshelf, typically on the sides or back panel
5. Pre-drill pilot holes in furniture: Use 1/8-inch bit to drill holes in bookshelf where screws will go (prevents splitting)
6. Attach strap to furniture: Screw one end of strap to bookshelf using wood screws provided
7. Pull strap taut to wall: Extend strap to wall, mark where it meets the stud
8. Pre-drill pilot hole in wall stud: Drill through drywall into stud (3 inches deep minimum)
9. Attach strap to wall: Drive screw through strap into stud until tight (don't over-tighten and strip)
10. Check tautness: Strap should be snug with minimal slack. Bookshelf shouldn't be able to tilt forward more than 1-2 inches
11. Repeat for second strap: Use two straps for bookshelves over 6 feet tall or very heavy units

Method 2: L-brackets (stronger, more permanent)

1. Position bookshelf against wall
2. Locate studs
3. Attach L-bracket to bookshelf top: One side of bracket screws to inside top of bookshelf
4. Mark bracket position on wall: With bracket attached to bookshelf, mark where the wall-side holes align with stud
5. Pre-drill holes in stud
6. Screw bracket to wall stud using lag screws or heavy wood screws
7. Use 2-4 brackets along the top of bookshelf depending on width

Additional bookshelf safety:

• Store heavy books on bottom shelves
• Don't overload shelves beyond weight rating
• Consider adding non-slip shelf liner to reduce book sliding
• Install safety lips on shelf fronts (small strips of wood to prevent items sliding off)

Dressers, Armoires, and Wardrobes

Dressers kill children every year through tip-overs even without earthquakes. During earthquakes, the risk multiplies.

Why dressers are particularly dangerous:

• Typically in bedrooms (often near beds)
• Children climb on open drawers
• Top-heavy when drawers are open
• Usually very heavy (100-300+ pounds)

Anchoring procedure (similar to bookshelves):

1. Position dresser against wall
2. Empty drawers if extremely heavy (makes leveling easier)
3. Ensure dresser is level
4. Locate wall studs
5. Attach furniture straps: Top back corners of dresser to wall studs
6. Use two straps minimum (one on each side at top)
7. Ensure straps won't interfere with drawer operation
8. Refill drawers, verify dresser stability

Special considerations for dressers:

• Drawers: During earthquakes, drawers can slide open. Consider child safety latches even for adult dressers
• Mirror attachment: If dresser has attached mirror, ensure mirror is firmly secured to dresser base
• Weight distribution: Store heavy items in bottom drawers

China Cabinets and Display Cases

These combine two hazards: the cabinet itself can tip, and glass contents become projectiles.

Anchoring the cabinet:

• Use same strap method as bookshelves
• Attach straps at top of cabinet to wall studs
• Consider L-brackets for very heavy or valuable cabinets

Securing contents:

• Museum putty: Apply small amount to base of each dish, vase, or decoration
• Plate rails: Install horizontal wooden strips (1-2 inches tall) along front of shelves to prevent plates sliding off
• Cabinet latches: Install earthquake latches on cabinet doors to prevent them flying open and contents spilling out
• Remove most dangerous items: Consider storing most valuable or dangerous glassware elsewhere and displaying only a few pieces

Entertainment Centers and TV Stands

Modern flat-screen TVs are top-heavy and will tip forward easily during shaking.

Securing the furniture:

1. Anchor entertainment center to wall using furniture straps (same as bookshelf method)
2. Ensure the unit itself is stable and level

Securing the TV:

1. Best option—wall mount the TV: Properly wall-mounted TVs are much safer than stand-mounted
2. If TV must be on stand:
3. Use TV anti-tip straps: Connect TV back to wall or to entertainment center back
4. Alternative: Museum putty under TV feet (works for smaller TVs under 40 pounds)
5. Ensure TV is centered on stand (not overhanging front edge)

Securing components:

• Use museum putty for cable boxes, game consoles, DVD players
• Secure soundbars with putty or straps
• Use cable management to prevent pulling if items shift

Refrigerators

Refrigerators pose unique dangers: they're extremely heavy (300-800 pounds), often have accessible front (people standing in front of open doors), and can cause gas leaks if they damage gas lines during falls.

Anchoring procedure:

1. Pull refrigerator away from wall (unplug if necessary, have helper for heavy models)
2. Locate wall studs behind refrigerator location
3. Attach refrigerator straps: These wrap around refrigerator sides and secure to wall
4. Position straps at upper third of refrigerator (prevents tipping)
5. Extend straps to wall studs on both sides
6. Secure with lag screws into studs
7. Push refrigerator back into position
8. Verify straps are taut and refrigerator doesn't tip when pulled from front
9. Ensure straps don't interfere with door opening

Important notes:

• Built-in refrigerators are typically secured by virtue of cabinet installation
• French-door and side-by-side models are more stable than traditional top-freezer models (lower center of gravity)
• After major earthquakes, inspect refrigerator for damage before returning to service

Water Heaters

Water heaters are absolutely critical to secure, especially gas water heaters which can cause fires if they tip and gas lines rupture.

Why water heater strapping is essential:

• Gas line ruptures can cause explosions and fires
• Required by code in most earthquake-prone jurisdictions
• Relatively easy and inexpensive to install
• Prevents water damage from broken supply lines

Installation procedure:

1. Purchase water heater strapping kit (available at hardware stores, $15-30)
2. Locate wall studs on both sides of water heater
3. Install upper strap: Wrap heavy-duty metal strapping around top third of tank
4. Extend strap ends to studs on both sides
5. Secure with lag screws through strap into studs
6. Install lower strap: Wrap second strap around bottom third of tank
7. Extend to studs and secure with lag screws
8. Tighten straps: Should be snug but not crushing the tank
9. Verify stability: Tank should not be able to tip or rock

Additional water heater safety:

• Install flexible gas and water supply lines (allow movement without rupturing)
• Ensure earthquake shut-off valve on gas line (automatically cuts gas during shaking)
• Keep area around water heater clear for inspection access

Special Situations and Challenges

Solutions for Renters

Many landlords prohibit drilling holes in walls, leaving renters feeling helpless about earthquake safety. However, several solutions exist.

Ask for permission first:

• Explain earthquake safety concerns to landlord
• Offer to patch and paint holes when moving out
• Many landlords will agree when they understand the safety importance
• Some states have laws requiring landlords to allow earthquake safety modifications

If permission is denied or impossible to obtain:

Museum putty and adhesive solutions:

• Use museum putty for all items under 20 pounds
• Heavy-duty adhesive strips for items 20-50 pounds (test first, may damage paint)
• These aren't as reliable as mechanical anchors but provide some protection

Furniture positioning strategy:

• Place tall furniture in corners where two walls provide bracing
• Position beds and seating away from tall, unsecured furniture
• Don't place heavy items on top of furniture (reduces top-heaviness)
• Store heavy items on bottom shelves

Earthquake-resistant furniture selection:

• Choose short, wide furniture instead of tall, narrow pieces
• Prefer built-in furniture when available
• Avoid glass-front cabinets and shelving

Temporary mounting systems:

• Some earthquake strap systems use compression instead of screws (wedge between furniture and ceiling)
• These are less reliable but don't require wall damage

Different Wall Types

Drywall (most common):

• Must anchor to studs as described throughout this guide
• Standard 2x4 studs every 16 or 24 inches
• Use wood screws, 2-3 inches long

Plaster walls (older homes):

• Plaster over wood lath
• Still must anchor to studs (studs are behind the lath)
• Drill carefully—plaster can crack more easily than drywall
• Pre-drill holes, use painter's tape over drill area to reduce cracking

Concrete or masonry walls:

• Use concrete anchors (Tapcon screws or expansion anchors)
• Requires masonry drill bit
• Drill holes, insert anchors, attach furniture
• Very strong once installed correctly
• More common in basements or commercial buildings

Brick walls:

• Similar to concrete—use masonry anchors
• Drill into brick, not mortar (mortar is weaker)
• If brick is veneer (covering another wall), must penetrate to structure behind

Metal studs (common in modern construction):

• Use self-tapping metal screws designed for metal studs
• These are thinner than wood studs—use care not to over-torque screws
• May require special toggle bolts designed for metal stud attachment

Mobile Homes and RVs

Mobile homes and RVs have thinner walls and different construction than houses.

Challenges:

• Wall studs are farther apart and less robust
• Wall panels may not support heavy loads
• Floor movement can be more extreme

Solutions:

• Use lighter-weight anchoring systems
• Consider furniture that bolts to floor instead of walls
• Museum putty for smaller items
• Built-in furniture is often the best solution
• Position free-standing furniture in corners for bracing

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Mistake #1: Using Drywall Anchors Instead of Studs

Why this fails: Drywall anchors pull out under earthquake forces

Solution: Always anchor to studs, period. Use stud finder, verify stud location, anchor properly.

Mistake #2: Screwing Into Furniture Backing Instead of Frame

Why this fails: Thin backing material (often 1/4-inch hardboard) cannot support earthquake forces. Screws pull through backing.

Solution: Attach straps to solid furniture frame—sides, top, or bottom. Feel for solid wood, not thin panel.

Mistake #3: Leaving Straps Too Loose

Why this fails: Slack in straps allows furniture to build momentum before strap engages. This creates shock loading that can fail the anchor.

Solution: Straps should be taut with minimal slack. Furniture shouldn't be able to tilt more than 1-2 inches before strap tightens.

Mistake #4: Using Too Few Anchors

Why this fails: Single strap on wide furniture allows pivoting. Furniture can still tip.

Solution: Use two straps for furniture over 3 feet wide. Space straps apart (not next to each other).

Mistake #5: Anchoring Furniture That's Not Level

Why this fails: Furniture that's already leaning is partially pre-tipped. Less force needed to complete the tip-over.

Solution: Use level to ensure furniture is plumb before anchoring. Adjust furniture feet or shim as needed.

Mistake #6: Over-Tightening Screws

Why this fails: Stripped screws have no holding power. Over-torquing screws strips the threads in wood.

Solution: Tighten screws until snug, then 1/4 turn more. Should be firm but not requiring maximum force. If stripped, move to new location or use larger screw.

Mistake #7: Forgetting to Account for Baseboards

Why this fails: Baseboards create gap between furniture and wall. Straps may not reach wall surface or may be at awkward angle.

Solution: Either attach strap above baseboard, attach to stud through baseboard, or use longer straps with appropriate angle.

Mistake #8: Not Checking Anchors Periodically

Why this fails: Over time, screws can loosen, straps can stretch or wear, furniture can shift.

Solution: Inspect furniture anchors annually. Tighten loose screws, replace worn straps, re-anchor furniture that's shifted.

Quick Reference Guide and Checklist

Furniture Priority List

Highest priority (secure first):

• ☐ Bookshelves over 4 feet tall
• ☐ Dressers in bedrooms (especially children's rooms)
• ☐ China cabinets and display cases
• ☐ Water heater (gas models are critical)
• ☐ Large TVs on stands
• ☐ Refrigerator (if not built-in)

Medium priority:

• ☐ Filing cabinets
• ☐ Tall armoires and wardrobes
• ☐ Entertainment centers
• ☐ Kitchen cabinets (install latches)
• ☐ Bathroom medicine cabinets
• ☐ Bookshelves 2-4 feet tall

Lower priority (but still important):

• ☐ Nightstands with heavy lamps
• ☐ Small decorative items (use museum putty)
• ☐ Picture frames and mirrors
• ☐ Computer monitors and equipment

Step-by-Step Checklist for Each Furniture Piece

1. ☐ Identify furniture to secure
2. ☐ Choose appropriate anchoring system (straps, brackets, or putty)
3. ☐ Gather tools and materials
4. ☐ Position furniture against wall where it will stay
5. ☐ Use level to ensure furniture is plumb
6. ☐ Locate wall studs with stud finder
7. ☐ Mark stud locations on wall
8. ☐ Pre-drill pilot holes in furniture (if using straps or brackets)
9. ☐ Attach anchor system to furniture
10. ☐ Pre-drill pilot holes in wall studs
11. ☐ Attach anchor system to wall
12. ☐ Tighten all fasteners appropriately (snug but not stripped)
13. ☐ Test stability—try to tip furniture forward gently
14. ☐ Make adjustments if needed
15. ☐ Document what you've secured (note on calendar to check in 1 year)

Shopping List Template

Before going to hardware store, count:

• Number of tall furniture pieces (bookshelves, dressers, cabinets): _____
• Number of appliances to secure (fridge, water heater): _____
• Number of TVs on stands: _____
• Number of small items for museum putty: _____

Purchase:

• ☐ Furniture straps: Buy 2 per furniture piece = _____ total straps
• ☐ L-brackets: _____ sets
• ☐ Museum putty: 1-2 packages
• ☐ Wood screws (2-3 inch): 1 box
• ☐ Water heater strapping kit (if needed)
• ☐ TV anti-tip straps (if needed)
• ☐ Stud finder (if you don't have one)

The Bottom Line: Furniture Anchoring Saves Lives

Securing furniture against earthquakes is one of the highest-impact, lowest-cost safety measures you can take. For an investment of $50-100 and one weekend afternoon, you can dramatically reduce injury risk and property damage in your home.

Key takeaways:

• Must anchor to wall studs—drywall alone will fail
• Prioritize tall, heavy furniture especially in bedrooms
• Use appropriate anchoring systems—straps for most furniture, L-brackets for heavy items, putty for small objects
• Invest in a quality stud finder—this is the essential tool
• Renters have options—ask permission, use adhesive solutions, or position furniture strategically
• Don't overthink it—imperfect anchoring is better than no anchoring
• Check annually—verify anchors are still tight and effective

Start today: Pick the single most dangerous piece of furniture in your home—probably the tallest bookshelf or the dresser in your child's bedroom. Secure just that one piece this weekend. Then tackle the next piece. Incremental progress is better than paralysis.

The difference between a secured bookshelf and an unsecured one is the difference between a scary earthquake and a tragic one. Your 30 minutes of work today could save a life when the next earthquake strikes.

For more comprehensive earthquake preparedness, review our guides on complete home earthquake-proofing and emergency supply kits. Stay informed about seismic activity in your area using our real-time earthquake tracking map.